Eswatini’s ecotourism masterstroke: Villagers unite to protect unique indigenous Jilobi forest

By Phathizwe Zulu

MANZINI, Eswatini (AA) — Jilobi forest, a lush part of the Lubombo biosphere reserve in the Southern African nation of Eswatini, is home to a plethora of local flora and fauna, some not found in any other part of the world.​​​​​​​

Populating a small area of eastern Eswatini, Jilobi is nestled between South Africa and Mozambique on the Lubombo plateau. Since 2019, it has been part of an international effort by the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, also known as UNESCO, to bring people closer together with their natural surroundings under the Man and the Biosphere program.

The Lubombo ecosystem is a hotspot for biodiversity, with the country's tourism authority reporting that out of the 88 mammals that inhabit the region, 20 are endogenous to Jilobi forest. It is home to the Lubombo ironwood trees and Lubombo cycads, as well as the recently discovered Barleria plant.

However, in order to benefit more than 20,000 people living there, the chiefs of the local Maphungwane, Tikhuba, and Lukhetseni communities set aside possible conflicts and competing interests and committed to uniting their peoples to protect Jilobi.

Thobani Dlamini, a 31-year-old resident of Lukhetseni and local tour guide, emphasized that the forest is a point of pride for the three chiefdoms, with its rich natural heritage reviving the indigenous beliefs of their ancestors.

"You see this tree," he said, pointing to a snake climber plant. "This is one of our indigenous plants here in Jilobi forest." Dlamini went on to explain that the tree, believed to ward of curses, is often planted by locals near their homes.

He then picked another plant believed to bring rain. "This is a cabbage tree. Our ancestors used it to make rain," he explained. "They would cut its top and take it to the river to perform certain rituals. The rain would fall. They believed that a person with darker skin would bring heavier rainfall compared to a person with lighter skin."

Nocturnal animals like bush babies and leopards dwell among the thick vegetation of the forest, while daytime visitors can observe many bird species, he said.

"This forest is dense and populated. Our wildlife consists of elusive animals that people really want to see. They are not easy to spot due to the thickness of the forest. To catch a glimpse of these animal species, a visitor would need to spend days in the forest. It is difficult to see the majority of the animals in just one day. Very difficult!" he explained.

Dlamini also mentioned that the forest is home to special bird species, such as the knysna turaco, the trumpeter hornbill, the red tinkerbird barbet, and the narina trogon.

"The narina is a very small, incredibly colorful bird," he noted. "The density of the forest also provides abundant food for frugivorous (fruit-eating) animals and offers a protective habitat." Among its millions, if not billions, of smaller residents, Dlamini pointed to the kite spider and biscuit box spider, which weave their webs among the trees.

- Protecting the forest

Part of the core of UNESCO's Man and the Biosphere program is its emphasis on sustainable development for local communities, as well as conservation, according to the tourism authority.

The cooperation of the Maphungwane, Tikhuba, and Lukhetseni on conserving Jilobi has significantly cut down cases of illegal harvesting of the forest's natural resources.

"Our unity as communities has made it easier to protect our natural heritage," said Dlamini. "Previously, we had syndicates coming from other parts of the country and neighboring countries, illegally harvesting our plants in large quantities.

"Now, we must protect the remaining plants to preserve our indigenous knowledge," he said.

Mandla Makhanya, the Project Manager of the Transfrontier Conservation Area at the Eswatini National Trust Commission, acknowledged that the loss of biodiversity in the forest was a serious problem, especially for the endangered Lebombo cycads.

"There are syndicates involved in the illegal harvesting of indigenous plants," he noted.

He noted that Eswatini's endemic cycads are among the most sought-after species that are illegally harvested in Jilobi and smuggled to South Africa, Mozambique, and possibly Europe.

"Somebody once told me that the value of a Swazi cycad is almost equivalent to that of a rhino horn. I really don't know what they use it for," he said.

Makhanya explained that cycads have different subspecies that are specific to certain locations. In Eswatini, Jilobi forest is home to the Lubombo cycads, known in scientific nomenclature as Encephalartos lebomboensis and Encephalartos swaziensis.

"They are even different in their growth patterns. For example, the Encephalartos swaziensis only grows leaves from the ground, while the Encephalartos lebomboensis displays stems. Therefore, if the former grows a stem, it is likely over 50 years old, and that is the variety in demand on the global market," said Makhanya.

On the other hand, Indalo Eswatini, a non-government organization involved in the Jilobi forest project, has empowered communities to actively participate in the biodiversity economy.

According to Seth Maphalala, the organization's environmental consultant, international structures set up to for the access and benefit-sharing regime are clear. As an organization, they have helped the communities establish an eco-business model that helps them recognize the value of their own natural assets.

Maphalala said that since Jilobi forest is part of the Lubombo biodiversity area, multinational corporations want access to certain plant and animal species. However, Indalo Eswatini has strengthened the communities' ability to recognize the need to share the benefits fairly and to effectively participate in negotiations with these companies.

"The organization supported the community in effectively managing their own natural resources and educated members on participating in developing a sustainable eco-business plan to enhance opportunities for access and benefit sharing," he said.

"We are not the only country doing this, as we comply with international protocols such as the Nagoya Protocol. These communities have coexisted with these species for centuries, and the forest holds cultural significance for them. We have emphasized the importance of establishing clear benefit structures, drawing lessons from other communities, such as the San and Devil's Claw in Namibia, as well as other noteworthy incidents involving access and benefit sharing for communities," explained Maphalala.