How vintage market transformed derelict London street into antique lover's paradise

By Aysu Bicer

LONDON (AA) — Nestled among the bustling antique shops and curiosities in the heart of London's Church Street stands Alfie's Antique Market, one of the largest and most beloved markets of its kind in the UK capital.

An icon of both history and modernity, this market has become a thriving hub for collectors, traders, and those seeking a unique piece of the past.

In the 19th century, the building that now houses Alfie's was home to Jordan's, a haberdashery superstore selling knicker elastic and darning wool. But as fashion trends evolved, people's interests shifted away from mending undergarments to buying new ones, spelling the demise of Jordan's.

Eventually, in the early 1970s, the store went bankrupt, leading to the sale of its 30,000-square-foot building.

In 1976, Bennie Gray, who had just left a career in journalism, noticed that the building was for sale. With a deep-rooted passion for antiques and a desire for a new project, he took the plunge and acquired the building.

Gray's enthusiasm for taking on challenges is evident, and he has actively participated in numerous projects throughout the years. These projects typically involve revitalizing aging and run-down buildings, where he possesses a remarkable knack for seeing their potential for regeneration.

- From Jordan's Haberdashery to Alfie's Antiques

In an interview, Gray, who is the visionary behind Alfie's, relates the fascinating story of how this establishment came to be and why it continues to flourish.

"One of the more interesting things about it is this: When we started back in 1976, the whole area was almost a no-go area. There was so much crime, vandalism, and dereliction. Most of the shops on Church Street were boarded up. There was no way you could do anything here. The police didn't like it much," he explained.

It was at that time that Gray acquired the building, initially planning to use just the ground floor and operate on Saturdays. Little did he know that this venture would exceed all expectations.

Alfie's Antiques Market quickly became a sensation, drawing in visitors from far and wide. Demand was so overwhelming that within a few years, more space had to be added to accommodate the growing number of dealers and collectors.

When asked about the secret behind Alfie's instant success, Gray modestly attributes it to doing the right thing in the right place at the right time.

His deep knowledge of antiques and the support of his father, Alfie, who was a well-known figure in the area, undoubtedly played crucial roles in this achievement.

Another core aspect of Bennie's philosophy is his fervent belief in the vitality of small businesses and startups, recognizing them as essential contributors to a thriving economy, both locally and nationally.

"I think it has become one of the most interesting streets of art and antiques in the whole of London. And I'm rather pleased with that. So it's become a nice place to hang out. There are no longer very many antique markets at all in London,” he said.

According to Gray, astronomical property prices are one of the reasons behind this city-wide decline. “But because we managed to get this building quite cheaply, we were able to run it on a very economic basis. So it's quite cheap for antique dealers to trade here. In fact, I think it's probably one of the only places left in London together with the crazy antique market in the West End."

A key factor in Alfie's ongoing appeal is its sense of community. Gray describes it as a "running soap opera," with love affairs, rivalries, and friendships abound.

"This place is not just about selling antiques — it's about bringing people together," he explained. "The strong social energy here plays a pivotal role in our success."

Indeed, the Edgware Road Antique Market has become so successful that neighboring derelict shops have been revitalized by antique dealers eager to be part of this vibrant community.

The market's evolution is also closely tied to the changing demographics of the Edgware Road area. Over the last two decades, this iconic street, stretching from the distinctive Marble Arch northward, has seen a significant influx of businesses and residents of Middle Eastern background. Gray pointed out that the market is responding to this transformation by featuring a diverse array of Middle Eastern dealers and artifacts.

"When we started this market, there were hardly any Middle Eastern people living or working in the area," Gray reflected. "Now, their presence is remarkable, and we're proud to reflect this by showcasing fascinating Middle Eastern objects and traders."

"And the other thing that is really good here, like the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, I suspect, is (that it’s) very commercially fertile. The traders do a lot of trading; they buy and sell from each other as well as to the public, you know, and that makes it much more interesting," he added.

- Getting ‘revenge’

According to Gray, English collectors for centuries ventured to China, India, and the Middle East, amassing invaluable treasures that found their way into institutions in the country like the British Museum.

However, in a remarkable cultural shift, collectors from these regions are now "getting their revenge," as Bennie Gray said.

"More recently, the Chinese and the Indians are coming, getting their revenge," he noted. "They're buying what has been stolen from them and taking it back to China and India."

This phenomenon is not limited to just China and India; it extends to the Middle East as well. Gray observed that Middle Eastern art and artifacts are experiencing increased demand in today's market. "There's a very buoyant market for Middle Eastern objects of art," he stated.

Gray also said he is planning to visit Türkiye next year to write a book on Gobeklitepe, the world's oldest known place of worship.

"Very mysterious, which predates agriculture, involving moving lumps of stone weighing 20 and 30 tons almost before the wheel was invented, and utterly fascinated to figure out how that happened," he said.

Exploring Alfie's Antiques Market through Bennie Gray's eyes makes it clear that this market is not just a place to buy and sell items of historical value. It's a place where stories, relationships, and a sense of belonging are forged.

It serves as a reminder that even in an ever-evolving world, the power of community and appreciation for the tangible, well-made, and beautiful things continue to thrive.