OPINION - From McDonald's to sushi: The reach of Asian food culture sweeping the world

By Md Nazmul Islam

- The author is head of Türkiye, Asia, and Indo-Pacific studies at the Institute for International Relations and Strategic Research at Yildirim Beyazit University in the Turkish capital Ankara, and an assistant professor at the same university.

ISTANBUL (AA) - Not long ago, following the end of the Cold War, Western nations, particularly the United States, adopted a unique propaganda-based cultural and public diplomacy strategy: establishing dominance through attraction rather than force. After three decades of unipolar branding and attraction politics, a new challenge has emerged in global politics. A multipolar, "multiplex," [1] and multi-geopolitical cultural and public diplomacy strategy has taken shape, where popular culture, such as food, plays a crucial role in winning hearts and minds. This popular culture is vital to generating and exercising soft power. This gradual process eventually leads to the establishment of hard power through the appeal of soft elements like food. [2] While global citizens may criticize American hegemony or military actions in Afghanistan, Cuba, Vietnam, or Iraq, they still enjoy consuming products from American brands.

- Asian foods are challenging Western dominance in popular food culture

Eating at McDonald’s, socializing at Burger King, or drinking at Starbucks were once considered elitist, affluent, and influential trends in popular cultural soft power. However, over the past decade, this narrative has gradually shifted. New and emerging competitors have challenged these dominant Western brands. Asian food culture, in particular, has risen to fill this gap. From China to South Korea, Japan to India, Indonesia to Pakistan, Malaysia to Bangladesh, Türkiye to Kazakhstan, Iran to Thailand, and Yemen to Afghanistan, Asian cuisines have demonstrated their global appeal, challenging Western dominance in popular food culture. Additionally, controversies involving American brands, such as McDonald’s providing free meals to the Israeli military during Israel's assaults on Palestinians have negatively impacted their ethical credibility and global perception, highlighted the one-sidedness of some global food brands, and further diminished their standing in the popular food culture rhetoric. [3]

Popular food culture has always been diverse and not centered on any single region. However, a Western-Eurocentric perspective has often equated popular food culture with Western-branded cuisine. Before the rise of contemporary Western influence, food items from Turkic nations, China, or India –such as spices – were central to trade, linking Eastern, Western, and African worlds. Dishes like Japanese sushi, Chinese sichuan hot pot, Turkish kebab, South Korean bibimbap, Thailand’s spicy soup, Indonesia’s nasi goreng, India’s biriyani, Kazakhstan’s besbarmak, Lebanon’s hummus, Bangladesh’s hilsa fish curry, Malaysia’s sasi lemak and Pakistan’s nihari showcase the rich and varied culinary traditions of Asia. These Asian cuisines are increasingly gaining global recognition and popularity, challenging the dominance of Western food culture.

- Towards an Asian century through food and popular culture

Asians living in Western countries maintain a strong connection to their diverse food cultures, which also serve to bridge cultural gaps with Western communities. Many Asian embassies host food festivals and exhibitions to strengthen these bonds and engage with local populations by using the “power of bonding." [4] Culinary diplomacy has become increasingly prominent in Asian diplomatic efforts. Global branding, recognition, and interaction with Asian food culture can be attributed primarily to global tourism and the widespread Asian diaspora. [5]

A recent analysis of Google search data identified the 40 most-searched cuisines in the US, revealing that Chinese food leads with over 3.35 million monthly searches, followed by Mexican food with 1.22 million. Thai cuisine ranks third with over 823,000 searches, Indian cuisine fourth with 673,000, and Korean cuisine fifth with 246,000. Japanese and “soul food” each receive 201,000 searches, while Greek, Italian, and Hawaiian cuisines garner 165,000, 165,000, and 90,500 searches, respectively. [6] In Britain, The Guardian reported in 2017, over 80% of chefs in "curry houses" come from the Sylhet region of Bangladesh. [7]

Additionally, access to international television content through platforms such as Netflix and Amazon Prime has increasingly familiarized global audiences with Asian popular cuisine. For instance, the Japanese TV drama Midnight Diner: Tokyo Stories and the anime series Food Wars: Shokugeki no Soma have significantly contributed to the global reach and appreciation of Asian gastronomy by showcasing its exquisite culinary traditions.

Asian food exhibitions around the world successfully showcased the extensive variety of Asian cuisine. Alongside the growing global popularity of other Asian cultural elements, such as dramas and anime, this has significantly enhanced the cultural soft power of Asian cuisine. If the 21st century is to be an Asian century, popular culture, particularly cuisine, must play a crucial role in fostering greater understanding and cooperation. As the appeal of Asian cuisine rises, the global attraction to Western food is moving to a transitional period, reflecting a broader shift in the influence of Western civilization. This transition extends beyond politics, economics, and foreign policy to encompass popular culture, with cuisine occupying a prominent position.

[1] https://medium.com/international-affairs-blog/what-is-a-multiplex-world-order-d942af3d2b45

[2] https://www.aa.com.tr/en/analysis/opinion-turkish-made-drone-akincis-charm-offensive-in-iran-how-can-hard-power-be-a-tool-of-soft-power/3226106

[3] https://www.reuters.com/world/middle-east/free-meals-israeli-soldiers-divide-mcdonalds-franchises-over-israel-hamas-war-2023-10-17/

[4] Islam, M.N. (2023). Power of Bonding and Non-Western Soft Power Strategy in Iran. Cham: Palgrave Macmillan. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-031-19867-0

[5] Islam, M.N. (2024). Power of Bonding and Non-Western Emerging Great Powers Engagement: Comparing China and India's Soft Power Strategy in Pakistan. New York: Lexington, Rowman & Littlefield. https://rowman.com/ISBN/9781666920994/Power-of-Bonding-and-Non-Western-Emerging-Great-Powers-Engagement-Comparing-China-and-India%E2%80%99s-Soft-Power-Strategy-in-Pakistan

[6] https://www.qualityassurancemag.com/news/new-study-reveals-most-popular-cuisines-in-america/

[7] https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/jan/12/who-killed-the-british-curry-house

*Opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect the editorial policy of Anadolu