Türkiye’s Phrygian Valley: A journey through ancient history and scenic wonders

By Zehra Nur Duz

AFYONKARAHISAR, Türkiye (AA) - Caverns dot the rock facades of a valley in western Türkiye where, thousands of years ago, one might meet armies, merchants, and other travelers bustling through the ancient realm of King Midas.

The area is known today as the Phrygian Valley, with cliffsides rising from gently rolling hills. These have served many cultures and civilizations through the centuries, leaving behind tombs, forts, monuments, and dwellings hewn into the rock.

Covering an area of about 5,300 square kilometers (over 2,000 square miles), the valley is named after the ancient Phrygians, who inhabited it for over 3,000 years, most famed today for the mythical golden touch of their King Midas.

Carved centuries after Phrygian rule, the valley walls also feature burial chambers and churches dating back to the Roman and Byzantine eras.

Speaking to Anadolu in the province of Afyonkarahisar, where much of the ruins can be found today, Ali Kabakulak points to the valley’s status as a “transportation hub and junction point from ancient times to the present day,” as one of its major features.

Kabakulak, a member of the local Afyon Kocatepe University’s Tourism Faculty, said the valley is marked by the historical Royal Road that traversed it, stretching from the ancient Persian city of Susha to Ephesus near the Aegean Sea coast.

Serving both military and commercial purposes, it was long a strategic lynchpin in its region and is today a hidden gem for tourists, added to UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List in 2015.

- Cultural legacy

Delving further into history, while Afyonkarahisar is associated most with the Phrygians, the Hittites were actually the first major civilization known in history to have settled there.

But the Phrygians, established in the 9th century B.C., lived exclusively in this area, while the Hittites were based further east.

“Being situated amidst four provinces, including Ankara, Eskisehir, Afyonkarahisar and Kutahya (provinces), and covering a vast area, the Phrygian Valley distinguishes itself with its structures reminiscent of Cappadocia,” Kabakulak said, referring to the renowned fairy chimneys of Cappadocia in southern Türkiye.

The soft volcanic rock that the Phrygians and others carved into homes, tombs, temples, and fortresses, was also malleable to wind erosion, resulting in winding stone structures, including the cone-shaped fairy chimneys.

The Phrygian Kingdom has left behind a rich mythology, including Midas.

They believed their mother goddess, Kybele, who symbolized fertility and abundance for many other communities in Anatolia as well, made her home inside the rocks, building many sacred stone monuments throughout their land.

Lion symbols guard the exterior of these burial chambers, representations of Kybele.

“What makes the valley special is its status as a center of worship for the Phrygians as the region is home to highly significant monuments, dating back to the Phrygian period, such as the Aslankaya, Maltas, Yilantas, and Aslantas temples,” according to Kabakulak.

One of these temples to Kybele, Aslankaya, overlooks Lake Emre, which visitors to the Phrygian Valley can enjoy in a hot air balloon tour far above the surface or a scenic boat ride under the flocks of migratory birds.

- Heart of Phrygia: Ancient Ayazini

Ayazini village, seen as the heart of Phrygia and a religious centerpiece during the Roman and Byzantine periods, has a rich history spanning thousands of years.

Previously known as Ayazini Metropolis, this village has been continuously inhabited at least since the era of the Phrygians, its oldest known inhabitants, and has served as a pivotal settlement for the empires of the Eastern Romans, the Seljuks, and Ottomans.

In Ayazini, homes perched atop rocky slopes have gradually melded with ancient tombs, bringing the ancient and modern together in a unique setting where remnants of diverse cultures coexist.

Upon examining the earliest traces, it has been established that Ayazin was settled as early as 6,000 years ago, being under Phrygian control in 750-696 B.C., while traces of numerous other civilizations are also present.

The rock structures in the area mainly consist of areas for living and daily use, such as for storage and stables, but also include castles, sacred sites, cisterns, and thoroughfares.

Cultural traces from different periods of the ancient era can be simultaneously observed throughout the Ayazini Necropolis.

"The cemetery area contains burial structures from various historical periods. Even today, when people living in the region pass away, they continue to be buried there," Kabakulak noted.

Visitors can view tombstones from the Ottoman period side-by-side with churches in the necropolis, Kabakulak said: “This cemetery illustrates that this city has been a cradle of tolerance and a home to many civilizations.”

The region is believed to have been a major center under Byzantine rule, with a total of 25 churches and chapels of varying sizes scattered throughout the village.

The most significant structure in the region is the centuries-old Church of the Virgin Mary, carved out of the rock.

“Ayazini village emerges as distinctly exceptional with its collection of notable artifacts from the Phrygians, including rock churches, diverse styles of burial chambers, as well as significant chapels like the Church of the Young Jesus," Kabakulak said.

Ayazini also hosts Avdalaz Castle, a multi-story and multi-roomed settlement unit carved into tuff rock.

A large cistern is found at the upper entrance of the rock mass, while burial chambers are located at the lower part. The castle was known to be used for defensive purposes.